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KobaBeach
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by KobaBeach »

Argumentable wrote: 2 years ago Yeah, a lot of the people I liked were assholes (like me) and I feel like left pretty early. I know TimeTraveler went over to a SomethingAwful channel for Dungeon Fighter Online, though I don't think he was actually a SA member when he did.

Other than that there was Bokobono/Wareng/whatever he's called who got on my nerves but might still be in the IRC? IDK if he actually left so much as didn't go on the forums anymore

Blinx who just vanished and his name is Blinx so good luck finding him

Ocard vanished and he was my boy and also I lost his picture that he sent me. He knows the one. Or maybe he doesn't.

And of course a bunch of other people later but these are some of the first ones I remember and also I'm forgetting some people both from laziness and unintentionally. If I tried to name everyone I ever actually talked to and liked I'd forget someone and offend them.
i miss wareng and ocard so hard i cry
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by KobaBeach »

im scared for the future because. i worry i might go too ham on game preservation and try to waste thousands of euro once i get an income or welfare trying to buy japanese windows games (doujin and commercial) on yahoo auctions that are outright unavailable in the rest of the internet just to dump them on internet archive for everyone to play. maybe even do subtitled playthroughs of the games

i literally saw momotarou densetsu for 4000 yen, elder blaze for 1190 buy now price, grana embrace for 700 buy now im fucking screaming on the inside
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by Argumentable »

Some games deserve to die
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by Argumentable »

Like execution style
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by paste »

do i have a paper crown too?

edit: apparently yes :mgmnds:
Love, paste
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by Ashan »

Leet wrote: 3 years ago Image
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by KobaBeach »

Been uploading some gameplay vids to Youtube and subtitling the Japanese.



The Japanese isn't the most exact at times, I especially had a hard time understanding the priest in Vay due to the terms he used (my Japanese listening skills increase in tow with my fluency sadly). Feel free to check it out! I'll try to upload a video on occasion, regardless of views, but this isn't my main Vay playthrough and Legend of Heroes 3 is a replay. I like spreading the love of RPGs. I'm also thinking of doing the same with some WRPGs, and I'll try to have a fluent Japanese and English speaking friend translate the text on those, not confident on my Japanese skills!

excuse el cursor in loh3
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by KobaBeach »

Watched Robocop yesterday and it was good. I liked its mix of satire with existentialism. It's super gory and grotesque but it's also pretty poignant, really digging the critique of letting corporations control society as well as law enforcement focusing on simply eradicating criminals rather than rehabilitate them, big issues in our society right now.

Here's Japanese!Kamil from 7th Saga
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by Quadro »

I just found my brother on the floor crying. I stayed beside him trying and failing to talk to him. It was only after I got my mom that he got off the floor and (maybe) started feeling better.

I feel like trash. I feel like I could've done more, done something to help him. But nothing.

Shit.
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by Dragon Fogel »

You did do something. You went looking for help.

I understand feeling powerless. I've been there myself not too long ago. I've also, at some points in my life, been on the floor and unwilling to get up. When that happened, in the end the only person who could get me off the floor was me, and it wasn't easy getting there.

You're not trash. You were faced with a difficult situation. There wasn't a lot you could do, but don't sell yourself short on what you did manage.
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by Bean »

Having an all right month, all things considered. Granted, I had to stop playing new games to get to that point, but whatever. Enjoying the editing and working out at the very least.
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by rena »

nice! one of my problems is that it takes a lot of energy for me to start games so i don't really play new games generally. getting a nice living room set up for playing games tho has helped and having someone to play them with

we've been playing the hell out of DDR too and I want to use it to gain a bit of post-pandemic fitness

it's been tricky to balance work with actually doing projects and stuff outside work but i've made a start anyway
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by Ashan »

Bought an IPS screen replacement and bigger battery to upgrade my GBA SP.

I’m thinking if that goes well I might also do a full on shell/screen/buttons/etc replacement on my regular GBA which is a real beater (not my original childhood one, bought it used a few years back for real cheap). I generally prefer the form factor of the original GBA to the SP. Even my relatively small hands for a man, I find the SP to be too cramped
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by rena »

Ashan wrote: 2 years ago Bought an IPS screen replacement and bigger battery to upgrade my GBA SP.

I’m thinking if that goes well I might also do a full on shell/screen/buttons/etc replacement on my regular GBA which is a real beater (not my original childhood one, bought it used a few years back for real cheap). I generally prefer the form factor of the original GBA to the SP. Even my relatively small hands for a man, I find the SP to be too cramped
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by Ashan »

Very swag!
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by ultratowel112 »

rena wrote: 2 years ago (DDR pad)
Neat! Is this for PC or console?

I need to get back into doing hardware projects. All I've done since university is replaced the laser in a PS2 a couple days ago.
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by rena »

ultratowel112 wrote: 2 years ago
rena wrote: 2 years ago (DDR pad)
Neat! Is this for PC or console?

I need to get back into doing hardware projects. All I've done since university is replaced the laser in a PS2 a couple days ago.
it's just for PC but tbh the electronics could be upgraded to support other stuff :P (https://rena.talkhaus.com/blog/2021-07-18-ddr-pad.html if you haven't seen it). currently tidying up the wiring and waiting for parts for the next one to come so we can do doubles/versus
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by ultratowel112 »

rena wrote: 2 years ago
ultratowel112 wrote: 2 years ago
rena wrote: 2 years ago (DDR pad)
Neat! Is this for PC or console?

I need to get back into doing hardware projects. All I've done since university is replaced the laser in a PS2 a couple days ago.
it's just for PC but tbh the electronics could be upgraded to support other stuff :P (https://rena.talkhaus.com/blog/2021-07-18-ddr-pad.html if you haven't seen it). currently tidying up the wiring and waiting for parts for the next one to come so we can do doubles/versus
I hadn't seen that, thanks for sharing.

If you don't mind, I have a couple questions for my understanding:
1) What is the purpose of setAxis() versus Joystick.button()? I don't know about gamepad programming, so maybe "hey Towel, read some documentation" is the best answer.
2) Why do you convert the analog input to a resistance instead of basing your threshold off the raw value? Just debugging readability?
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by rena »

ultratowel112 wrote: 2 years ago I hadn't seen that, thanks for sharing.

If you don't mind, I have a couple questions for my understanding:
1) What is the purpose of setAxis() versus Joystick.button()? I don't know about gamepad programming, so maybe "hey Towel, read some documentation" is the best answer.
2) Why do you convert the analog input to a resistance instead of basing your threshold off the raw value? Just debugging readability?
(1) it exposes axes and buttons both for debugging purposes and just that I thought it would be neat to have the pad also have analog inputs for each sensor


(note that each button also has a corresponding analog input)

(2) that answer's a bit involved actually, but does have a tl;dr answer if you understand why we use a voltage divider (which took some trial and error on our part to find out - most people don't bother and just connect the sensors to an analog input directly which really doesn't work):

basically each sensor is an unknown resistor value that varies from roughly 1000 ohms down to about 0 ohms when fully pressed. if you run this to ground/vcc on one side and the other side to a microcontroller's analog pin and read the value of the pin, that doesn't quite give you sensible values, because a microcontroller's analog pin actually senses voltage and not resistance. a resistor does slightly affect the input voltage, and that increases/decreases depending on if you're pressing it or not, so you can technically detect it, but in our experience the voltage difference is very minor so the input value would basically go from ~1000 to 1023 (which is a full 3.3V btw on our board) when pressed. we found this possible to very carefully calibrate to a digital controller value but very fragile and unsatisfying.

so we spent quite a while trying to work out how to fix this, because tbh it would make using the velostat as a sensor very unsatisfying and tbh not worth it as basically any two conductive materials touching would provide about the same amount of information and accuracy of presses. during that time I researched a bit and found out that everyone basically makes this mistake and that ddr players hate the velostat sensors as a result. (tbh I think if you do it right they're amazing though)

at this point we were basically testing the sensors with a multimeter and found out we could get a really precise pressure gradient from the sensor just by detecting its resistance with a multimeter and found at that you can basically do the same thing using a voltage divider (basically you just need a resistor of known value and then you can work out the value of the other resistor), and I'd sketched out the actual math needed to get a real resistance value. I ended up hackily soldering resistors onto each of my analog pins and implemented the math into my sketch to check if it worked properly, and it gave about the same values as my multimeter, the raw input now giving a range of 0-1023 instead of the previous 1000-1023. this resistance is then converted into a 0-1 axis value which we can then set a threshold on (we use 0.1 because we've found the sensors precise enough to never activate by accident but this lets you tap pretty quickly).

so the tl;dr is that once you're getting the full 0-1023 analog input range from each sensor using a suitably sized resistor you can probably just divide it by 1023 to get a normalised 0-1 value, but it isn't actually much more work to convert it to the real resistance value which shows why it works more clearly and would probably make it easier to troubleshoot if it broke.

btw thanks for the questions if you have any more lemme know :P
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by rena »

also as a sidenote I just put together this circuit on a little perf board to tidy up the resistors, so each sensor can just connect directly to it. before it was like this. at some point i'm gonna embed that board inside the pad somewhere and stick a usb on the outside
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by ultratowel112 »

rena wrote: 2 years ago
ultratowel112 wrote: 2 years ago
rena wrote: 2 years ago

it's just for PC but tbh the electronics could be upgraded to support other stuff :P (https://rena.talkhaus.com/blog/2021-07-18-ddr-pad.html if you haven't seen it). currently tidying up the wiring and waiting for parts for the next one to come so we can do doubles/versus
I hadn't seen that, thanks for sharing.

If you don't mind, I have a couple questions for my understanding:
1) What is the purpose of setAxis() versus Joystick.button()? I don't know about gamepad programming, so maybe "hey Towel, read some documentation" is the best answer.
2) Why do you convert the analog input to a resistance instead of basing your threshold off the raw value? Just debugging readability?
(1) it exposes axes and buttons both for debugging purposes and just that I thought it would be neat to have the pad also have analog inputs for each sensor
(snip)
(note that each button also has a corresponding analog input)

(2) that answer's a bit involved actually, but does have a tl;dr answer if you understand why we use a voltage divider (which took some trial and error on our part to find out - most people don't bother and just connect the sensors to an analog input directly which really doesn't work):

(snip)

so the tl;dr is that once you're getting the full 0-1023 analog input range from each sensor using a suitably sized resistor you can probably just divide it by 1023 to get a normalised 0-1 value, but it isn't actually much more work to convert it to the real resistance value which shows why it works more clearly and would probably make it easier to troubleshoot if it broke.

btw thanks for the questions if you have any more lemme know :P
Thanks for the response! When I was reading the write-up on your site I was wondering why you didn't have a pull-up, but then you mentioned the issue solved with one. I wonder what the internal pull-up is on the Teensy since you were reading ~3.23V (3.3*1000/1023) on the pin even with the sensor fully pressed. That implies a value of .023*(resistance of fully pressed sensor).

How do you think it feels compared to pad in an arcade?

The perf board looks a lot cleaner for sure. Are you thinking of making a PCB? Not that it is needed for a couple resistors and the Teensy, just curious.
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by rena »

ultratowel112 wrote: 2 years ago Thanks for the response! When I was reading the write-up on your site I was wondering why you didn't have a pull-up, but then you mentioned the issue solved with one. I wonder what the internal pull-up is on the Teensy since you were reading ~3.23V (3.3*1000/1023) on the pin even with the sensor fully pressed. That implies a value of .023*(resistance of fully pressed sensor).

How do you think it feels compared to pad in an arcade?

The perf board looks a lot cleaner for sure. Are you thinking of making a PCB? Not that it is needed for a couple resistors and the Teensy, just curious.
tbh I'm a little rusty with electronics which is why we had so much trouble working all this out in the first place, but I think I worked out that the teensy's pull-up resistor is around ~50k ohms based on the fact we only get a ~0.07V difference when pressing the sensor, which I tested with a multimeter to be about 1000 ohms when unpressed

and i haven't played in an arcade for a long time but an obvious difference is that the top is completely enclosed with plastic instead of there being separate steps that actually move, but the advantage of that is that you can just play in socks which I like a lot more. because of the neoprene the sensors still feel real good and it's still as sensitive as an arcade pad imo.

I want to learn to make pcbs at home for my next project anyway (which involves an unmanageable amount of individual wires otherwise) so I might for the next time I build a pad, but I was also thinking of just using a microcontroller directly since cramming a whole teensy in there felt a bit over the top. working all that out's going to take some energy I don't have right now though :P
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by ultratowel112 »

rena wrote: 2 years ago
ultratowel112 wrote: 2 years ago Thanks for the response! When I was reading the write-up on your site I was wondering why you didn't have a pull-up, but then you mentioned the issue solved with one. I wonder what the internal pull-up is on the Teensy since you were reading ~3.23V (3.3*1000/1023) on the pin even with the sensor fully pressed. That implies a value of .023*(resistance of fully pressed sensor).

How do you think it feels compared to pad in an arcade?

The perf board looks a lot cleaner for sure. Are you thinking of making a PCB? Not that it is needed for a couple resistors and the Teensy, just curious.
tbh I'm a little rusty with electronics which is why we had so much trouble working all this out in the first place, but I think I worked out that the teensy's pull-up resistor is around ~50k ohms based on the fact we only get a ~0.07V difference when pressing the sensor, which I tested with a multimeter to be about 1000 ohms when unpressed

and i haven't played in an arcade for a long time but an obvious difference is that the top is completely enclosed with plastic instead of there being separate steps that actually move, but the advantage of that is that you can just play in socks which I like a lot more. because of the neoprene the sensors still feel real good and it's still as sensitive as an arcade pad imo.

I want to learn to make pcbs at home for my next project anyway (which involves an unmanageable amount of individual wires otherwise) so I might for the next time I build a pad, but I was also thinking of just using a microcontroller directly since cramming a whole teensy in there felt a bit over the top. working all that out's going to take some energy I don't have right now though :P
It could also be 50k (and they value makes more sense), but I would have expected the range to be 0-23 in that case (or if it was a pulldown, but then 1000 would be unpressed and 1023 pressed).

It does seem like it would be more comfortable than moving pieces, plus there aren't pinch points. Being able to play without shoes is nice, too.

If you do go with just the microcontroller, I recommend soldering a socket to the PCB instead of soldering the microcontroller directly. A full JTAG setup would be ideal, but at that point it might be smaller to just use the whole Teensy.
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by rena »

ultratowel112 wrote: 2 years ago It could also be 50k (and they value makes more sense), but I would have expected the range to be 0-23 in that case (or if it was a pulldown, but then 1000 would be unpressed and 1023 pressed).
ah we used to have vcc/ground swapped because we went through a lot of iterations of testing, but the final configuration makes the common ground again because it makes more sense. that's the source the confusion I think. to be honest I was just vaguely recalling the numbers, I just remember the range being roughly 23 and even then it was less for some sensors which wasn't great, and in retrospect that's due to the vast difference in resistances which I should probably go back and add to my build log if I didn't note it.
ultratowel112 wrote: 2 years ago If you do go with just the microcontroller, I recommend soldering a socket to the PCB instead of soldering the microcontroller directly. A full JTAG setup would be ideal, but at that point it might be smaller to just use the whole Teensy.
for sure! soldering a microcontroller directly sounds like a maintainability nightmare. to be honest, I wanted to put the teensy itself in a socket, but the height of the teensy and perfboard is already reaching ~9mm and the height of the whole pad is 15mm so I'm already worried about fitting it in. if it doesn't work out in the end i'll just move it to an extra box instead and maybe we can just have two pads managed by one teensy, which is a bit smarter use of resources anyway

btw that's another + of this construction, the whole thing is just a 15mm slab of wood with polycarbonate on top, so it's much slimmer and lighter than a metal pad
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Re: talkhaus thoughts

Post by ultratowel112 »

rena wrote: 2 years ago
ultratowel112 wrote: 2 years ago It could also be 50k (and they value makes more sense), but I would have expected the range to be 0-23 in that case (or if it was a pulldown, but then 1000 would be unpressed and 1023 pressed).
ah we used to have vcc/ground swapped because we went through a lot of iterations of testing, but the final configuration makes the common ground again because it makes more sense. that's the source the confusion I think. to be honest I was just vaguely recalling the numbers, I just remember the range being roughly 23 and even then it was less for some sensors which wasn't great, and in retrospect that's due to the vast difference in resistances which I should probably go back and add to my build log if I didn't note it.
That checks out. I think you mentioned resistance going down to just under 900 somewhere, but maybe only in the code comments.
rena wrote: 2 years ago
ultratowel112 wrote: 2 years ago If you do go with just the microcontroller, I recommend soldering a socket to the PCB instead of soldering the microcontroller directly. A full JTAG setup would be ideal, but at that point it might be smaller to just use the whole Teensy.
for sure! soldering a microcontroller directly sounds like a maintainability nightmare. to be honest, I wanted to put the teensy itself in a socket, but the height of the teensy and perfboard is already reaching ~9mm and the height of the whole pad is 15mm so I'm already worried about fitting it in. if it doesn't work out in the end i'll just move it to an extra box instead and maybe we can just have two pads managed by one teensy, which is a bit smarter use of resources anyway
It is definitely a maintainability nightmare. How much thicker is your PCB compared to the perf board? Maybe soldering the Teensy to the PCB could be small enough? I agree that both pads being controlled by one Teensy sounds good, as long as you can properly map the buttons for two players from one USB connection. Shouldn't be too much of an issue though.
rena wrote: 2 years ago btw that's another + of this construction, the whole thing is just a 15mm slab of wood with polycarbonate on top, so it's much slimmer and lighter than a metal pad
Now you've got me thinking about a version where you can disassemble the nine squares for even more compact storage... I think the limiting factor with that would be a solid flat top piece.

Maybe I should have replied in the hardware thread instead of taking over this one :shrug:
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